Lead Climbing Rules PDF Print E-mail
  • All lead climbers must pass a Climb Iowa lead climbing safety check and climb at a level of 5.9.
  • Belayers must demonstrate the following:
    • Properly set up a belay device for leading.
    • If using the Petzl GriGri, you must adhere to the new techniques for lead belaying as described by Petzl.
    • Double check your climber and double check your belay BEFORE starting any climb.
    • Proper use of belay commands between climber and belayer.
    • Show how to safely feed slack to your climber WITHOUT losing control of the brake rope.
    • “Spot” climber before they reach the first quickraw.
    • Stand underneath the first quickdraw after climber has clipped two bolts.
    • Catch a short lead fall after 5 or 6 quickdraws have been clipped.  NO BIG WHIPPERS.
    • Lower your climber smoothly back to the ground.
    • Be able to recognize what a “z-clip” and a “back” clip is.
  • Climbers must demonstrate the following:
    • How to properly “tie in” to a climbing harness.  Use of a “sport” back-up, is acceptable.
    • Double check your climber and double check your belay BEFORE starting any climb.
    • Proper use of belay commands between climber and belayer.
    • Clip each draw, in order from a level between your head and waist.
    • Be able to explain what a “back” clip and what a “z-clip” is.
    • Must clip quickdraws without trouble, and appear safe.
    • Must be willing to take a short lead fall.
  • “Practice” falling is not acceptable unless you are in a Climb Iowa class or clinic.  Leaders taking “practice” falls will be suspended from lead climbing.
  • All leaders must check in and out lead ropes from the front counter and record their falls on that rope.
  • Keep your lead rope with you at all times when it is checked out in your name.  Lead ropes can’t be used by any unauthorized climbers.
  • Lead privileges can be revoked at any time if your leading skills are deemed unsafe by staff.
  • Climb Iowa will provide ALL lead ropes.